![]() Fertilize after the late summer pruning at one-half the spring season application rate. Once annually, phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), and magnesium (Mg) levels should be applied to rose beds (amounts determined by soil testing). Higher rates may be needed for new beds and those showing low levels of fertility. Fertilization – Following late winter pruning, apply a three-month-rated, controlled-release fertilizer at the rate of 1 (established bed) to 2 (new beds) pounds of actual nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet of bed area. Fine or aged bark and/or wood chips will necessitate extra nitrogen fertilizer to be applied.Ĩ. Over time, pine bark mulch tends to acidify and hardwood mulch raises soil pH. Maintain a minimum of a 2-3-inch layer of pine straw or pine bark at the start of spring. Mulching – Organic mulches are best for roses. Roses can provide five to seven nice flowering cycles annually with timely pruning/deadheading.ħ. Deadheading during the growing season leaves less pruning to perform in late winter and late summer. In addition, eliminate some interior older wood on 3-year-old and older roses. Prune again in mid to late July, cutting back one-third the plant’s height. Prune smaller-growing shrub-types such as Drift and Flower Carpet series less, maybe 25-33 percent growth reduction. Prune hybrid teas and grandifloras to a height of 18 inches. Prune in late February or March, reducing plant height and spread by two-thirds on most shrub types. Pruning and Deadheading – Develop an open-centered or vase-shaped shrub. Information on the plant tag regarding height and spread is usually incorrect, generally undersized. Better yet, leave at least 10-12 inches between plants. For disease and insect prevention, good air circulation and capturing all of the sun’s rays are imperative. Never Crowd Roses – The foliage of rose bushes should not touch that of adjacent plants. Consider planting roses in the fall rather than spring.ĥ. Do not plant rose plants too deep and avoid over-mulching, which simulates excessive planting depth. Planting and Planting Depth – Improper planting depth is a common landscape mistake. If soil drainage is questionable, consider growing roses in raised beds that are at least 6-8 inches tall and sitting atop gravelly soil base. The location should allow good air circulation and not be surrounded by tall landscape plants. Bed Preparation – Proper siting and soil preparation goes a long way toward disease management. Fall is the best time to apply lime or sulfur, as nutrients will work down into the soil over the winter.ģ. Amounts to apply will be indicated on your soil test report. Apply ground limestone (either hydrated or dolomitic) to raise soil pH or powdered sulfur to lower pH. Roses desire a slightly acid soil –pH 6.2 to 6.5. Roses require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. “Ideal sunlight” is from sunrise through early afternoon. Location, Location, Location – Roses grow and bloom their best in full sun with moist, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Visit reference rose gardens near where you live to learn the best rose cultivars for your area. Discussions of other types of roses – such as miniatures, tree standards, and climbers – are not included here. Hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and shrub roses are the four most popular categories of roses for Southeast gardens. Choose Good Genetics – Buy only the best rose varieties (cultivars). Follow steps six through 10 on a timely basis and your roses will flourish.ġ. Steps one through five are of critical importance if you want to avoid lots of extra care in years to come. Here is a step-by-step “recipe” for growing roses. Rose breeders continue to introduce varieties that are more resistant to pest and disease problems. To get your roses off to a great start, plant them in the right spot and select the best varieties. Roses ( Rosa spp.) contribute beauty and fragrance to any garden. There are many varieties of roses to pick from, many wanting little extra care.
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